Litter born ___________________________________
VACCINATIONS
Due dates:
____________ (8 weeks) Distemper Combo with Parvo (the DHPP - no Lepto*)
____________ (12 weeks) Distemper Combo with Parvo (the DHPP - no Lepto*)
____________ (16 weeks) Distemper Combo with Parvo (the DHPP - no Lepto*)
____________ (1 year) Distemper Combo with Parvo (the DHPP - no Lepto*)
* This can vary depending on the part of the country you live in and may change even in areas which are currently considered Lepto free. Check with your veterinarian.
After the puppy series, a vaccination should be given at 1 year of age, then vaccinations or titer testing done every 3 years.
Continue to ask your vet as studies are being done and the recommended timing is changing. Over vaccinating is now thought to be hazardous to a dog’s immune system so giving the least amount of shots to effectively control disease is the ultimate goal.
Rabies dates are determined by the local animal regulation laws but give it as late (6-12 months of age) as you can. DO NOT combine with the above shots; give at least two weeks apart.
To protect the immune system keep stressful things like shots, neutering, teeth cleaning, travel, moving, and boarding all separated by at least two weeks. Do not be tempted to save time by doing things like getting teeth cleaned and giving shots just before boarding. This can over tax a dog’s immune system and lead to immune related problems later. It isn’t worth the chance.
If you want more info on vaccines here are some websites –
http://www.news.wisc.edu/8413.html
http://www.cyberpet.com/cyberdog/articles/health/vaccin.htm
http://www.canine-epilepsy.com/vaccination.html
VACCINE REACTIONS: Allergic reactions are rare but can be life threatening. If your dog's head swells, it gets hives, has trouble breathing or anything that you think may be an allergic reaction GET IT TOO THE VET! Most vaccine reactions are caused by the "Lepto" portion of the distemper combo vaccinations. Ask your vet if he/she thinks it is safe to eliminate this ingredient. This disease has almost been eliminated and, at this time, most vets feel the risk of reaction is a greater problem than the risk of contracting the disease.
I always plan to give shots when I can be around to watch my dogs for at least 8 hours.
Dogs can have allergic reactions to bee stings and spider bits also. If you notice hives, welts, or swelling of the face vet attention is necessary. If you are traveling (where you would be unable to reach a vet) you might want to keep Benadryl on hand and ask your vet how to use it.
FLEAS: Don't use flea collars. Use Flea Busters or Terminator for carpets and beneficial nematodes for the grass, both non-toxics. Avon’s “Skin So Soft” Original bath oil (800-500-AVON) or www.shop.avon.com is a good insect repellent and can be used on your IG when you see fleas or are going into an area where you think they might pick some up. Dilute a couple of capfuls of the Skin So Soft in a spray bottle of water and spray just a light mist on your dog, especially the legs and underbelly.
ANESTHETIC: Be sure your vet knows that Sighthounds (greyhound type dogs) tolerate less than other breeds. Isofluorane gas seems to be the safest anesthetic currently used. AVOID ANY USE OF ACEPROMAZINE even as a pre-anesthetic.
FOODS
Puppies:
1. Goat's milk (not cow's) - canned evaporated or fresh
2. Stella & Chewy’s freeze dried raw – www.stellaandchewys.com
3. Party Animal canned and kibble – www.partyanimalpetfood.com
4. Evanger’s canned – chicken drummettes – www.evangersdogfood.com
5. Orijen – kibble – (877) 939-0006 or www.Championpetfoods.com
6. NRG Maxim, dehydrated raw – www.allrawnothaw.com
Adults:
1. Orijen – kibble – (877) 939-0006 or www.Championpetfoods.com
2. Evanger’s canned – chicken drummettes – www.evangersdogfood.com
3. Stella & Chewy’s freeze dried raw – www.stellaandchewys.com
4. Party Animal canned and kibble – www.partyanimalpetfood.com
5. NRG Maxim, dehydrated raw – www.allrawnothaw.com
6. Raw foods such as Pat McKay’s, Prairie by Nature’s Variety, Steve’s, and Stella & Chewy’s, there
there are several good brands and each part of the country may have it’s own. Also I give them raw chicken wings, cut into 1” pieces. As with human foods be cautious of the bacteria risk while handling raw meats.
There are other good foods, a good place to check and compare is The Whole Dog Journal - www.whole-dog-journal.com or (800) 424-7887. They rate dog foods and have their results available yearly.
I am experimenting with eliminating grains and beef from my dog’s diets, as we have found some who have a sensitivity to them.
Check labels! DON’T FEED FOOD PRESERVED WITH ETHOXYQUIN
TREATS
These are some companies that seem to have safe treats but we need to always check, and ask where they get their ingredients. For example, Free Range Dog Chews - www.freerangedogchews.com who has some good USA and Brazil products also now makes their Wraps (which used to come from Brazil) in China, Red Barn- www.redbarninc.com looks good, as does Ameri-treats – www.ameritreats.com, who has USA grown, human grade, chicken breast treats.
FEEDING: We give goat’s milk (not cow’s) a couple times a day until they are about 6 months old (1/8-1/4 cup), you can continue to give it to older puppies and adults depending on their weight gaining tendencies. Feed your puppy 3-4 times a day until it is about four months old then you can switch to twice a day. The pup will show you when it is time to make the changes by slowing down on how much and how often it eats.
We soak the kibble in hot water to soften it and add some human baby meats, canned dog food, or home cooked meats for flavor and variety. Then occasionally I give them a snack of dry kibble and see how they like it. Some times they prefer it dry.
At times when they are teething you may need to give them very soft food. If they stop eating we’ll try either all canned dog food or kibble soaked to a mush.
The general rule for judging your adult’s ideal weight is that you should be able to see three vertebrae and a little bit of the ribs occasionally.
TEETH: Get puppies accustomed to having you play with their mouths. Just lift their lips and gently rub your fingers around their teeth until they are about four months old. Once they get their adult teeth (in front) start gently brushing. They do not have all of the adult teeth until about 10 months of age so it is not necessary to do total cleaning.
Brush adults teeth daily with a dog tooth brush (a baby size will work but the ones for dogs are a better size/shape) and dog toothpaste, not human toothpaste. There are instructions with pictures on our website (www.LittleluvIGs.com under care and training). MaxiGuard is good for daily use and Chlorhexidine products are very helpful for killing oral bacteria. If your dog has bad breath it probably needs dental care. Gum disease is a leading cause of illness in older dogs, be sure to keep up the brushing and have your vet check its mouth during visits.
TOENAILS: Grind your dog’s nails at least every week, l use a Dremel Moto Tool. This is extremely important to the development and care of your dog's feet and legs. There is a detailed article on the site (www.LittleluvIGs.com under care and training) about this process.
If you can’t get comfortable with a grinder you can use "RESCO" clippers to cut them and then a Diamond Deb toenail file or woman’s acrylic nail file to get closer to the quick and smooth the edges afterwards.
WORMS: Many vets automatically worm puppies. DO NOT let the vet worm your puppy unless you are positive that it has worms. Take a stool sample in when it gets the16 week shot unless you have reason to suspect that there are worms. I also check all of the older dogs once every year or two. Again do not worm unless a positive stool sample shows that your puppy/dog has worms.
This applies to our dogs, if you got your dog from another breeder ask what they recommend or check with your vet.
MORE ABOUT WORMS: Worms (round worms) come either from flies (eggs are on their feet), eating things that are infested, or the Mom. If a bitch has ever had worms in her life she will pass them on to her pups. Even if Mom has been treated for worms and no longer has them she will still carry the eggs encased in her tissue which will be released by the hormones of pregnancy. So vets get used to most puppies having worms and some automatically treat for them. I do not agree with this procedure. Worming is giving poison to kill the worms. The proper way would be to tell you to bring in a stool sample and check for worms, not to give a puppy worm medication without knowing if he needs it or not.
Our dogs (those who have always lived here) have not tested positive for worms for over 20 years so there is no reason that the pups should have them. If the females are treated for worms as pups before their worms mature and lay eggs then are kept worm free they will not pass them on to the pups. Since IGs spend most of their time inside and we do not feed them outdoors we have not noticed the adults getting any, but it is still possible for them to play with a dead bird or mouse so I check.
EAR MITES: Ear mites are a common puppy disease. What you will notice is dark waxy stuff in their ear, little red dots on the inside of the ears, or your puppy scratching or shaking its head often. They are easily cleared up with drops (Tresaderm from the vet) twice a day for 10-14 days. This is a problem that usually just happens once (if at all) and then they have an immunity, adults seldom get these mites.
CLEANING PRODUCTS: Products like Lysol and Pinesol have been reported to have substances in them which can build up in your dog’s liver and cause damage. We recommend you not use them. Dogs can be exposed by eating off the floor, licking their feet, and drinking from the toilet.
*** I am not a veterinarian but am offering this as what we have learned and practiced, at this time, after over 30 years in dogs. If you have any questions you should also ask your own veterinarian. ***
SHOPPING FOR IGs: There are many useful and fun things available through the club website - www.italiangreyhound.org (under “Merchandise” and “Links & Resources”), and most go to benefit IG rescue and health studies. Below are the coats and leashes we have used and like but I am sure there are other good ones available. When you buy leashes be sure they are sturdy and so safe from coming apart.
GREAT DOGGY COATS: These are companies that make really nice coats and/or sweaters fitted to the greyhound shaped body.
1. Voyagers K9 Apparel - (877) 423-7345 for catalogue, or order from their website - www.k9apparel.com
2. Hound Togs tele/fax is (650) 343-2774. Several styles of coats and rain slickers, some with fleece lining. Email: houndtogs@aol.com
3. Houndz in the hood - www.houndzinthehood.com
LEASHES: The leashes we HIGHLY recommend are the "martingale" type. They are the safest we have found and have wide collars that are easy on their necks.
1. Marial - (414) 355-4776 or email - marial@wi.rr.com, website - http://marial.netfirms.com/
2. Sit Up and Beg - Beautiful deerskin collars in wonderful colors, two-tone or with crystals.
I have these in West Los Angeles or you can order from www.situpnbeg.com .
There are other nice martingales available just check that they are sturdy enough to be safe. I have tried some that look pretty but have fallen apart allowing the dog to slip free. This could be a safety hazard.
COLLAR SAFETY: If you want to leave a collar with I.D. on your dog use a safety cat collar. These either break away or have elastic that allows them to come off and not strangle the dog/cat if they hook them on something while climbing or playing.
