& HOUSE TRAINING
Your Rescue Rep (or breeder) should have started this training.
By Tia Resleure
Please read everything
thoroughly before starting!
is getting your dog accustomed to enjoying the security of a crate,
house training is teaching your dog that you would like
it to relieve itself in a specific area. Crate training is a useful
tool for potty training and for giving your dog a sense of security.
Dogs were originally den creatures and a crate can be used to
re-create the den environment.
Many potential behavioral
problems associated with anxiety can be avoided by early crate training.
In most cases it
is NEVER too late to crate train your older dog! You
might need to let the older dog get used to the crate for shorter periods
of time and build up to the regular schedule.
Crate trained dogs
are more welcomed as visitors, contented as travelers, and safer in
A firm grasp of
the concept of crate training might make all the difference to an ambivalent
or a 'no dogs allowed' landlord.
Used as an aid to
potty training, you will be taking advantage of the dog's natural instinct
to not soil its den. The dog will be naturally encouraged
to 'hold it', rather than you frightening the dog by chasing it down
or getting into the unproductive habit of scolding the dog for accidents.
dog came from a good breeder or sensible rescue rep and has already
been sleeping in a crate. This will make the process MUCH easier.
Do feed meals
in the crate. This will not only speed up the crate training process
it will reinforce the pleasure the the dog will have with his experience
with confinement. It is also useful for dogs that are in the habit
of spitting out kibble to eat in other locations of your home. In multiple
dog households it can be very stressful, especially for a sensitive
breed like the Italian Greyhound, to have to eat their meals in a competitive
Learn the behavior
that indicates your dog is about to pee or poop. Most dogs will
sniff the floor or ground intently some will do a few circles. Others,
especially puppies can be very fast, so if you see that butt start to
descend to the floor be ready to scoop the dog up and get it to the
desired area. Watch what leads up to peeing and pooping when it is doing
its business in the appropriate area. The goal is to not
let the new dog make even one mistake in the house, it is either to
use its papers or go outside. This is your responsibility, you
need to have your dog confined or under your strict supervision so that
it is impossible for it to pee/poop except where you want it too.
Be sure to have
your new dog or puppy pee and poop (if it is time) before you allow
it free time in the house. Dogs are creatures of habit
if you allow them to potty in the house you are creating this as a habit.
Three times is all it takes to create a habit. If you are
unable to watch closely enough to prevent accidents you must confine
your dog so that it cannot make a mistake. The dog isn't really
making a mistake: the owner is, by not being vigilant enough to prevent
After a dog is comfortable
with its crate and/or pen it may still want to let you know that it
would like attention. If you think it might need to go out then
take it out and afterwards return it to its pen/crate. If you
are sure it does not need to go out or to use its papers then ignore
You want to make
this as easy on the dog as possible but they do need to learn to be
in the crate/pen and entertain themselves. Be sure you are giving
them attention, exercise and allowing them to relieve themselves as
needed so that if they fuss at other times you can ignore them and allow
them to settle down.
When you bring a
puppy/dog home all this is new, it has left familiar surroundings and
friends/family. Now is the time for it to learn how to be independent,
so it might as well get adjusted to what you would like to be its routine
in the long run. This can be stressful and a growing experience,
you want to give it what it needs but not coddle it so much that it
doesn't become self-assured and confident while left alone.
Try not to teach
your dog that crying will automatically gain freedom by letting the
dog out (of its pen or crate) when it cries. Try to at least wait
for a momentary lull of noisy or frantic behavior before releasing the
dog. If you can catch your dog when it is quiet and reward it
by praise and a snuggle then put it back, you can speed the process
by rewarding for good behavior. The behavior you desire needs
to be encouraged by rewards (attention) and that which you do not want
should be discouraged by not giving any attention. Some dogs will
even take negative attention (yelling, spraying, etc.) so the best form
of not reinforcing undesirable behaviors is to ignore them. If
you can wait it out until the dog has stopped the period of time that
they fuss will get shorter and shorter. If you reward them by
giving in you strengthen their belief that complaining will get them
what they want and therefore it will go on for longer next time before
they will give up.
Be careful NOT to
inadvertently encourage a dog's crying by crooning to the
dog, saying it's okay or otherwise express sympathy for
its apparent displeasure with confinement.
The best way to
deal with barking while the dog is confined is to ignore it. If
it's really driving you crazy, try telling it no or hush
then spraying the dog with a squirt gun or spray bottle that contains
plain water. Do this calmly and without emotion and give the dog
a chance to obey your verbal command before you spray.
It usually takes
less than a week for the dog to get accustomed to the crate. If
you have neighbors, it would be polite and in YOUR best interest to
inform them that your dog is being trained and that there will be an
adjustment period. Gifts of earplugs and a show of concern for
THEIR well being can go a long way!
please consider collar safety! Dangling tags and regular collars
have been known to kill dogs by getting caught on knobs, wire doors,
etc. Only use a breakaway, safety collar when your dog is unsupervised!
Contact info can be written on the outside of the collar with
a permanent marker instead of tags.
households, every dog should have its own crate. Dogs that aren't
allowed individual space and time with their owners can develop anything
from subtle to serious behavioral problems. Dogs always crated together
can lead to unnatural dominance/submissive pack dynamics. My feeling
is that they should have at least 1/2-1 hour of quality individual time
with the owner (and at least 1 hour of dog time) If you decide
to get a second dog because you don't have enough time for one dog and
are concerned that the one dog is lonely, carefully consider this paragraph.
goes in must come out! Food and water, on schedule, will help
you to anticipate WHEN your dog will need to relieve itself. Once
your dog is completely house trained and mature, you should then provide
fresh water at all times, however, never free-feed your dog.
You must schedule and measure your dog's food so you can get a handle
on his/her potty habits. Keeping track of food measurement and intake
will not only help you keep your dog in optimum condition but can prevent
or cure picky eating habits. Studies have also shown that dogs that
are allowed to free-feed tend to develop tartar quicker than those that
are fed on schedule.
The ultimate goal
of crate training is to have a happy and well-adjusted dog that is trustworthy
and anxiety-free when left loose in your home.
(Velcro attached, waist/penis covers, AKA"weenie wrappers")
for males are okay for visiting places where they might feel the need
to mark territory, but should not be considered a viable alternative
to proper house-training or for a dog that is suffering from anxiety.
Once your dog is
trained, do not take their crate away from them! Most dogs enjoy
having their own safe haven. You can remove the crate door or
keep it open with a bungee cord. At the very minimum, your dog
should continue to eat it's meals in it's crate and have some quite
time after each meal. It can be very useful if you ever need to
travel with your dog or you dog needs confinement because of illness
If your dog is still
having accidents, and you are sure that you are utilizing the schedules
properly: CONSULT YOUR VETERINARIAN.
Any sudden lapse
in potty training or change in frequency of urination is a matter to
be taken up with your veterinarian.
If there are no
health problems, try to figure out if there is a new source of anxiety.
This could be something quite subtle, like a new mail carrier or a new
cat in the neighborhood.
DO NOT allow
your dog to continue to pee/poop in the crate. This will ruin
its instinct to keep the den clean and make house training very difficult.
If you cannot figure out and correct the reason or are not being able
to religiously honor the schedule switch to an ex-pen or go back to
a previous schedule immediately at least until you can resolve the situation.
Once your dog is
potty trained, DO NOT rely on your dog signaling to you that
it needs to go out. Do watch for signals, but be sure that you
get the dog to a potty area on schedule. Even if there is a dog
door or available papers, you should still be responsible for reminding
the dog to go potty on schedule, especially if the potty training is
a new accomplishment.
TERMINOLOGY AND TIPS FOR USE OF SCHEDULES
1. Go out means
take dog to potty area (outside or to papers) ON LEASH. Teach
a word or phrase to associate with the action (i.e., hurry up,
go potty/, etc.) Choose a phrase and use it consistently.
This is not a time
for play or walks. Keep dog in the general potty area.
Put up a tarp so
your dog has a dry place to potty outside.
dog has produced. Effusiveness of praise depends on
the individual dog. Use as much enthusiasm as the dog can handle
without getting OVERLY excited or distracted.
Keep in mind that
many males will urinate at least TWICE before the bladder is emptied.
Until you are in
tune with your dog's potty habits, you might have to wait a bit. If
dog doesn't go within 5-10 minutes, put dog back in crate
for about 10 minutes, then try again.
If you are reasonably
sure that the dog needs to potty, do not allow free period until the
dog has produced. This is especially important in
the early phases of crate training.
If your dog is new
to a leash and will NOT poop on lead, try using a baby suppository to
"get the ball rolling.
ALWAYS clean up
after your dog when it poops in public places, even if you feel that
it is an out of the way location!
2. Free periods
are NOT to be unsupervised! In fact, free periods need to be used
for EXERCISE, such as interactive play, walks, training, socialization
etc. Free periods can be EXTENDED by having a collar and leash
on the dog with the leash attached to your waist or belt loop.
Free periods are also a good time to introduce your dog to other parts
of the home.
3. Food and water should be provided at scheduled intervals for approximately
20 minutes and then picked up. You can refrigerate, if necessary,
and re-heat for the next meal. Dogs will occasionally skip a meal.
This is all right, just wait until the next scheduled feed time
and offer it again.
It is very important
to allow time for food and water to process through the dog's system
BEFORE confinement. Unrestricted water in the early phases of
training can overload the bladder, causing accidents in the crate or
give the dog a bladder infection if they try to hold it too long.
Use common sense!
If your dog is over heated before a scheduled watering, do give the
dog a little water. Try to avoid situations that would make the
dog SO thirsty that it would want to gulp large quantities of water
Obviously, you CANNOT
leave a dog without water if you live in a hot climate and your home
is without air-conditioning. If that is the case, potty training
will take a lot more effort and more frequent outings. A covered ex-pen
would be a sensible choice for this situation.
Once your dog has
a stabilized schedule and can be allowed freedom, then be sure to provide
a constant supply of fresh water.
Do not, however,
keep a constant supply of food in the bowl. Keep feedings on a
timed schedule. You need to be able to monitor your dogs daily
Food should be a
quality brand that does NOT contain preservatives, especially ETHOXYQUIN.
Try asking which natural food sells well at your pet food suppler.
A fabulous food that isn't popular might be very stale. My personal
favorite is Innova, made by Natura Pet Products. Web site: http://www.naturapet.com
Any diet changes
should be done VERY gradually to avoid loose stools.
4. Confine means
to a crate (or an ex- pen for puppies and special cases). I prefer
to use a Vari-Kennel type crate instead of all wire crates. They
give a greater sense of security to the dog. If you use an all
wire type, I advise draping it with a blanket to give the dog security.
The crate should
be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and lie down. Their
head need not be erect when standing in the crate. Withers height
(point at the base of the neck and top of the shoulders) should be the
MINIMUM (including the bedding in crate).
Too large of a crate
might not give the dog enough security. They might also make their
den in the rear of the crate and use the front for the potty
For the growing
pup, I recommend getting a crate that will accommodate the dog when
it is an adult If you find the pup doesn't respect (potties near
the door) this large of a crate, you can make it smaller by wiring in
several layers of cardboard in the rear of the kennel.
Placement of the
crate is very important. The purpose of crating is NOT to
isolate the dog. Try to put the crate (applies to ex-pens too)
where dog will not be lonely. Put the crate in your bedroom at
night. Do not place crate near drafts, too close to heaters or in places
where sun will bake the dog.
Remember that sun
patterns not only change seasonally, but daily!
DO teach a word
or phrase when putting the dog in the crate (i.e.: "crate",
"kennel or "bed").
For very short-coated
breeds, DO try warming up the dog's bedding in your dryer when first
teaching the dog to accept the crate.
DO NOT worry about
your dog needing a view out a window. Passing strangers and teasing
cats can cause immense STRESS to a dog, confined or not.
DO leave on a radio
or TV when you are gone from the house. Be sure that it is a consistently
The toys that you
give your dog when confined should be sturdy and long lasting. I
recommend Gumabones (not the rock-hard Nylabone) in the wishbone shape
(easier for dog to hold in paws) or a rope bone. Some animal product
chewies are too salty and would make the dog thirsty. Personally, I
don't like my dogs to get a taste for them because it can then be difficult
to get them to accept the safer chewies that don't taste as good. Dogs
have choked or gotten intestinal blockages when they ate the animal
product toys rather than just chewing off tiny pieces. Dogs that
are usually gentle with toys can be unexpectedly destructive when left
alone. Save the more fragile (ones they can tear apart) and edible
toys for when you are there to supervise. Try to distinguish safe
toys from play toys.
TROUBLE SHOOTING & GRANTING FREEDOM
Any accidents need
to be cleaned up and have the odor NEUTRALIZED. Use commercial
pet odor neutralizer or white vinegar, 50/50 with water. Blot
up as much urine as possible, then soak area with treating solution
(keeping in mind that urine can spread further under upholstery fabric
or carpeting). Blot again, repeat. Stubborn odors may need re-treatment
or need to be kept wet with treating solution for at least 8 hours.
Keep dog and crate
clean and odor free!
Do NOT scold a dog
for an accident. If caught in the act, you can try to startle
the dog into stopping, but it is far easier to follow the schedule and
avoid the accident in the first place. Many dogs will perceive
that they are being scolded JUST for eliminating, not for eliminating
in an inappropriate LOCATION.
Allow your dog
to earn its freedom GRADUALLY. I can't stress the importance
of this enough! Many dogs will get the potty thing
down quickly but still need to be confined while you are away until
they get through stages where they might hurt themselves or your home.
Keep in mind that puppies will go through a very heavy teething
phase around 5-6 months of age. During this period, even though your
pup may be potty trained, you still want to make sure that he/she is
safely confined, when you are not able to supervise.
Another very important
consideration is the dog's ability to handle the responsibility of being
LEFT IN CHARGE while you are away from home.
Never make a big
deal when you are leaving your dog. This will only encourage anxiety.
Dogs have a natural
instinct to protect your home while you are gone. When you leave,
they move up in pack position. This can cause ANXIETY if the dog
is too young or is reaching sexual maturity.
New, older dogs
are also susceptible to anxiety, even if previously potty trained. Be
ESPECIALLY concerned if your dog has come from an abusive and/or emotionally
This anxiety is
also not uncommon with smaller breeds of dogs. The smaller dog
will have the same instinct to guard the home, but might feel insecure
about this responsibility due its size.
This can lead to
the dog marking territory in an effort to "add insurance"
that will keep away intruders. THIS IS NOT A LAPSE IN POTTY HABITS,
BUT IS AN ANXIETY ISSUE.
THINK THAT YOUR DOG KNOWS THAT IT HAS DONE SOMETHING WRONG.
If you think your
dog looks "guilty", you are wrong. The dog just remembers
that in a similar situation YOU got angry or were in an unreceptive
Other signs of anxiety
can be excessive barking and/or destructive chewing.
With ANY dog in
your home, you will need to be aware of situations that can cause anxiety.
Grant freedom one
room at a time. Keep curtains drawn. Always go back a step
if problems arise.
issues by building the dog's self confidence with jobs like
obedience training and by making sure that greater freedom is given
gradually. Being in charge of the whole house and property may
be too overwhelming unless the area is increased over time.
While I would say
that they are in the minority, be aware that some dogs may NEVER be
emotionally stable enough to have full run of your house while you are
YOUR RESCUE REP IF YOUR NEW IG IS EXPERIENCING ANXIETY.
is another factor that should NOT be considered a lapse of potty training.
Some dogs will 'piddle' as a sign to you that they know you are
the BOSS and they are on the extreme bottom of pack order.
Ideally, all dogs
would fall somewhere in the midrange of the dominant/submissive scale.
Submissive piddlers are the extreme opposite of the alpha role.
Causes can be improper
socialization, spending too much time with litter-mate after 7 weeks
of age (being constantly picked on) and overly harsh punishment at too
young an age.
NEVER scold a
dog for submissive urination!
The most common
time for this behavior to occur is when the dog greets you after an
To solve this problem,
you will need to make greetings VERY low-key. I advise not saying
anything, not making direct eye contact and not bending over to pet
the dog. Come into your home calmly, ignoring the dog. Quietly
lie on the floor and allow the dog to greet you at his/her level. Be
sure to protect you face from happy paws! Gradually speak softly
and pet the dog. Do NOT get up until the dog has calmed down.
This approach may
be necessary for several months! In the meantime, learn or practice
obedience with the dog to further build it's confidence. Be sure
that all family members and any visitors understand the importance of
this type of oblique greeting.
CRATE TRAINING & OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
For young puppies
(7 weeks old to 14-16 weeks old):
Most breeders raise
puppies in an ex-pen. This is a wire doggy playpen 4 foot x 4
foot with a wire-hinged top. Inside it are papers, a bed (preferably
in a crate), food, water, and toys. The puppies will be sleeping
in the crate, coming out to pee and poop on the papers, have room to
play, and access to food and water. Initially the papers will
cover the entire exposed floor, then as the puppies pick an area they
like to use we will start removing the extra sheets and decrease the
area to that of an unfolded newspaper page. Then the papers can
be gradually moved to the handiest part of the pen.
Pup should be confined
to a small manageable area, covered with papers, with the crate set
up inside for its bed. Remove the crate door or prop it open with
a bungee cord. It is handy to be able to confine the pup while
you are cleaning up the papers.
The four-foot square
wire exercise pen (ex-pen) WITH A TOP is ideal for this kind
of arrangement. These can be obtained from pet supply wholesalers for
a reasonable price. Be SURE that bar spacing is appropriate for
your size of dog. Many dogs are climbers. Use a top for
safety. Don't just get a taller ex-pen, this won't stop the climbers
and is even more dangerous.
Ex-pens can be set
up in carpeted rooms if you first lay down a scrap of seamless vinyl
flooring (at least a foot wider than the pen). My favorite exercise
pen is made by Precision Pet Products and can be seen at: http://www.precisionpet.com
I recommend the
models SXP or GXP (24" high for IGs). This standard set of 8 panels
sets up to a convenient 2' x 6' pen. You must get 3 extra panels
to make a top: Many IGs will climb and you don't want
to risk a broken leg! These pens come in gold tone or
silver. With the 2' x 6' configuration you can put the pups crate
at one end the potty papers at the other end so the living and potty
areas are distinctly apart.
(800) 524-0820 Or contact Precision Pet Products for a dealer near you:
Precision Pet Products
2183 Fairview Road, Ste. 103
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
Phone (800) 397-3167 or (949) 574-1800
Fax (949) 574-1822
For a different "look", PVC exercise pens can be ordered from
Rover (see under Dog/Baby gates below).
Your kitchen or
a corner of your kitchen can work too, if you'd rather not purchase
an ex-pen. If this is what you chose, avoid very small rooms with high
ceilings (like small bathrooms). I have seen dogs that were extremely
disturbed by this kind of set up. I'm not sure if this was causing
a type of claustrophobia or if it was the acoustics, but regardless,
I would be leery of this type of situation, and still believe that an
ex-pen is preferable.
If you choose to
set up a puppy area other than an ex-pen, be sure that it is completely
puppy-proof! Be especially aware of knobs that could hook on a collar
or cupboards edges that could be destroyed. Any cupboards need
to be securely puppy proofed.
start to develop TRUE physical bladder control until they are 14-16
Although you can
have some success with more frequent outings, I prefer to wait until
they are really ready to learn to "hold it". In the
mean time you can follow the Play/Potty Schedule to structure
your interaction so that you may enjoy your puppy but not allow it make
mistakes in the house.
When your young
puppy is out of the pen leave the side open to the room so the puppy
has access to the papers. At first you will be putting the puppy
back in the pen or onto the papers according to the schedule (below)
but you will be watching for the puppy to start heading back on its
own. Praise every time the puppy goes on the papers but (if you
are going to paper train) Let your pup know you ar very pleased when
it goes back on its own!
Gear your feeding
schedule towards what you will be doing when you start confinement to
If your goal is
to have an outdoor potty dog ONLY, resist the urge to praise your young
pup for running back to the papered area to potty! It is natural
for pups to seek out a place that smells familiar. If your goal
is outside only, your pup could later be confused about what you want.
Try to just quietly enjoy this marvel of natural instinct.
For adults who
were not previously accustomed to a crate:
If you are using
an ex-pen, introduce your new dog to the crate by taking the door off
or using a bungee cord to tie it open, then put it inside the pen. Fill
the crate with soft thick bedding and toss some treats inside. If
the only soft bedding is in the crate your dog should use the crate
for its bed. When it is comfortable with the crate start closing the
door for short periods like when you clean the pen. Give your
iggie treats whenever you want it to go in the crate and when you leave
it inside try to have a good toy, chewy, or cookie that will last at
least 5 or 10 minutes for them to enjoy. Once they are comfortable
in the crate you can begin following the appropriate schedule when you
are at home.
When you are using
a crate only for house training put treats and soft thick bedding inside.
After your dog is used to going in and out toss a treat in and
close the door for a few seconds while the dog is inside then open it
and praise. If you do this while you are sitting in front of the
crate it should not bother the dog. Make this a game. Next
shut the door for short periods of time with a longer lasting treat.
Gradually lengthen these times. At first stay with the dog
then leave the room and return in a few minutes gradually lengthen your
away times. You are trying to assure the dog that you will return.
For dogs that
have had their natural instinct not to soil the den broken
by over confinement:
You will have to
redevelop the dog's natural instinct. Do this by using the same
ex-pen setup used for very young puppies. Make sure the crate
is nice and cozy (not too large!) and always kept clean. Be PATIENT!
It may take SEVERAL months of the dog being allowed the OPTION
of not soiling the bedding to correct this problem. DO continue
to follow the schedule as closely as possible, but WITHOUT crate confinement,
so you will be able to anticipate when your dog needs to go potty and
you are there to reinforce the desired results with praise.
makes PVC gates that don't have many (if any) cross pieces so there
are no footholds. I have heard of folks adding another gate when
they climb the first and then another, then they get hurt falling down
the other side. Another tip if you have a potential climber is
not to lift the dog over the gate, but to open the gate. The safest
is to start with a 4 foot gate with only vertical bars on hinges and
don't show the dog the over the top exit route.
The Rover gate manufacturers
will send you a catalogue.
20 Kiji Dava
Sundog Industrial Park
Prescott, AZ 86301
VERSUS OUTDOORS ONLY
Many people prefer
the convenience of paper training small dogs.
Using a plastic
or metal tray will help to define the potty area. Sides of this
tray should be shallow. This area should be NO SMALLER than an open
sheet of newspaper for one dog. Useful trays could be a large
photo-developing tray, a commercial baker's tray or a metal or plastic
pan sold as a replacement for a wire dog kennel. I prefer a tray
that has about 3 inch high sides. Do be as methodical about paper
training as you would with outdoor training.
Wee-Wee pads are
very expensive and are not necessary. Many layers of newspaper
will retain enough attracting odor after you've picked up the top layers.
If you prefer, you can buy bulk rough surface plain newsprint.
Plain newsprint doesn't smell as much (no wet ink) and is cleaner
on your hands and the dogs feet. There is also a newer type
of cat litter that is a paper product, which I haven't tried but sounds
like a good possibility.
When first starting
to paper train, try soaking up some urine with a paper towel to scent
the potty area.
Leg lifters prefer
having a target. Try a plain paper bag weighted down (with a rock
or marbles, if your dog can be trusted with small objects) in the middle
of the papered area. You might need a larger tray area to accommodate
the leg lifter. Some people have constructed a washable walled
corner (with paper clothes-pinned to it) for the potty area for their
leg lifters and find it very effective. Others have used the large
storage bins with one side cut down or a small dog house (with top off)
and papers inside. These can be easily washed.
Clean up papers
at least twice a day!
DUEL POTTY AREA TRAINING (indoors & outdoors)
Initially, you want
to choose one method or the other to avoid confusing the dog. Make
SURE that your dog fully understands what is expected with the original
potty location before training your dog to be an indoor/outdoor potty
First train your
dog to what will be the MOST usual/preferred location. Duel trained
dogs are a BONUS, but duel training doesn't ALWAYS work out and can't
be absolutely counted on.
Methodic and gentle
handling are in order if you try to achieve this goal. Introduce
your approval to this new location by taking the dog there on leash
and giving the cue word for potty that your dog should already know.
PRAISE when you get the desired results.
DOG DOORS: (great
Dog Doors are great
to use if you have a safe yard or enclosure for the dog to go to.
This area should be escape proof, free of poisonous plants and predators,
and one where your dog will not be a temptation to thieves or crazy
people who might poison it. Know your neighbors and be sure they
will feel comfortable coming to you if your dog ever becomes a nuisance.
Install a dog door
that has a flexible flap to avoid an injury that would discourage a
dog from trusting it.
Try to get one with
a clear flap. Many dogs want to make sure that the coast is clear
if they have ever had an accidental unpleasant experience outside the
door (such as a run-in with a nasty cat).
DO NOT use the
dog door as an excuse to get out of the discipline required in initial
Make sure that
you have a solid foundation of being with the dog to assure
that it goes potty and that you are there to praise, before allowing
the dog to go outside on it's own. Otherwise you run the risk
of your dog not really understanding what you want. If
this were the case, your dog would likely be confused in any other situation
that was without a dog door. (visiting friends, etc.)
With smaller dogs,
it will speed up the process of learning to go through the door, if
you start by holding up the flap for them and gradually letting them
feel the weight of the flap as they go through.
Do not force
them through. If you are on the opposite side of the door, they
will be much more likely to try it. It's usually easier to start with
IT WOULD BE CRUEL
AND INHUMANE to confine a dog for extended lengths of time:
exercise and quality human interaction.
allowed to eliminate before confinement.
If it has a weak
bladder or is prone to bladder infections.
THE FOLLOWING SCHEDULES
Always be sure that you have blank copies of the schedules on hand.
Please feel free to distribute this information to ANYONE who
might find it useful.
Also feel free
to reformat this info for ease of printing. (I would recommend
having the schedules on separate pages according to age group.)
schedules are only meant to serve as a starting point.
Start by filling
in YOUR wake up time, initially following the recommended time spacing.
Use a PENCIL
to allow for modifications based on the individual dog's needs and to
allow for physical and emotional maturing.
Start the schedule
on a day that you won't have to go to work (the beginning of your weekend)
so you will be aware of morning time modification requirements.
You might find
that you will have to wake up earlier, especially when first starting
the training schedule.
If you are still
having problems with a 14 or 15 week old puppy after a few days, your
pup may not be physically mature enough. If that is the case,
delay crate training for a week or two.
NEVER come home
later than usual if your dog is confined or does not have access to
with your schedule. You will need to follow it even on your days
off. I highly recommend posting the schedule in a convenient location.
Confine your dog
to an exercise pen WITH A TOP and with papers if you cannot come home
at the scheduled go out times. Follow the crate confinement
schedule when home. Paper training will be your most flexible
EX-PEN PLAY/POTTY SCHEDULE for puppies 7 to 14-16 weeks
___ 07:00 Wake up/Go
___ 07:15 Free period
___ 07:30 Food & Water
___ 09:00 Go out
___ 09:15 Free period
___ 09:45 Confine
___ 11:00 Go out
___ 11:15 Free period
___ 11:40 Confine
___ 12:30 Food & Water
___ 01:00 Go out
___ 01:15 Free period
___ 01:45 Confine
___ 03:00 Go out
___ 03:15 Free period
___ 03:45 Confine
___ 04:45 Water
___ 05:00 Go out
___ 05:15 Free period
___ 05:45 Confine
___ 06:45 Food & Water
___ 07:00 Go out
___ 07:15 Free period
___ 07:45 Confine
___ 08:45 Water
___ 09:00 Go out
___ 09:15 Free Period
___ 09:45 Confine
___11:00 Go out/Confine overnight
SCHEDULE for 14-16 weeks - 6 month old pups/ 3 meals per day
____ 07:00 Wake
up/Go out ............NOTES:
____ 07:10 Free period
____ 07:30 Food & Water
____ 08:00 Go out
____ 08:15 Free period
____ 08:45 Confine
____ 12:00 Food & Water
____ 12:30 Go out
____ 12:45 Free period
____ 01:15 Confine
____ 04:30 Food & Water
____ 05:00 Go out
____ 05:15 Free period
____ 05:45 Confine
____ 08:00 Water
____ 08:15 Go out
____ 08:30 Free period
____ 09:00 Confine
____ 11:00 Go out/Confine overnight
SCHEDULE for 6 - 18 mo. old pups or untrained adults (2 meals per day)
____ 07:00 Wake
____ 07:15 Free period
____ 08:00 Food & Water
____ 08:30 Go out
____ 08:45 Free period
____ 09:30 Confine
____ 12:30 Water & Go out
____ 12:45 Free period
____ 01:45 Confine
____ 05:00 Food & Water
____ 05:30 Go out
____ 05:45 Free period
____ 07:30 Confine
____ 11:00 Go out/Confine overnight
SCHEDULE for HOUSE TRAINED ADULT DOGS/ 2 meals per day
____ 07:00 Wake
____ 08:00 Food & Unlimited water
____ 08:30 Optional- if your dog didn't poop when it went out earlier
in may need to go out again
____ 12:30 Go out
____ 05:30 Food
____ 06:00 Go out
____ 11:00 Go out/Bedtime/Remove water overnight.